Read this before buying an Iron Pig that is slowly returning to iron oxide.
So You Think You Want an FJ55
You probably do. The FJ55 is one of Toyota’s strangest, most charismatic and most unmistakable Land Cruisers.
It is also a large collection of complicated sheet-metal shapes that Toyota apparently designed while assuming rust would never be invented.
Buy the Body Before the Drivetrain
Engines can be rebuilt. Transmissions can be swapped. Axles can be serviced.
An FJ55 body can consume enormous amounts of fabrication time, money and emotional stability.
FJ55 Basics
The FJ55 was Toyota’s larger Land Cruiser wagon between the earlier wagon-bodied Cruisers and the later FJ60.
Production variations exist by market, and old trucks have frequently accumulated replacement engines, transmissions, axles, steering systems and body panels.
Treat year-specific details as identification clues, not permission to skip inspecting the actual vehicle.
Late 1960s–Early 1970s
- F-series inline-six power.
- Earlier trucks commonly use three-speed transmissions.
- Four-wheel drum brakes on earlier examples.
- Manual steering is normal.
- Very simple mechanical systems.
- More early-specific trim and detail parts to preserve.
1974
- Important transitional year.
- Four-speed transmission appears.
- Engine details differ from the later standardized 2F configuration.
- Some components can be one-year or transitional pieces.
- Verify exactly what engine and drivetrain are actually installed.
This is not necessarily bad. It simply means “1974” deserves more identification work than a classified-ad headline.
1975–1977
- 2F 4.2-liter inline-six becomes the familiar engine.
- Four-speed manual is the normal later configuration.
- Front disc brakes appear during this period.
- Rear drums remain.
- Manual steering remains common.
Some transitional differences exist, especially around early 1975 production. Inspect the actual hardware.
1978–1980
- 2F inline-six.
- Four-speed manual.
- Front discs and rear drums.
- Power steering appears on later trucks.
- Exterior details and tail-light configurations changed.
- Later examples can be desirable for usability.
Later does not automatically mean better. Rust still gets the final vote.
Where the Pig Likes to Rust
The FJ55’s body is the center of the buying decision.
IH8MUD owners repeatedly identify the same areas, and many are harder to repair than similar damage on an FJ40 because of the wagon’s compound curves, roof structure and FJ55-specific sheet metal.
Lower Front Fenders
Inspect the lower rear portion of both front fenders, especially behind the front wheels. The shape traps dirt and moisture.
Rockers and Door Sills
Check both the outer and inner rocker structures. A rocker that looks bad from outside can be substantially worse inside.
Front Floors and Kick Panels
Pull back rubber mats and carpet. Inspect the floor next to the kick panels, seat mounts, front body mounts and seams around the transmission tunnel.
Rear Wheel Arches and Lower Quarters
Inspect the wheel-lip structure, inner wheel wells, lower rear quarter panels and areas around rear reflectors and lamps.
Tailgate
Check the lower tailgate, hinge mounting areas, window channel and corners.
Roof and Rain Gutters
Inspect the complete roof gutter, roof-edge seam and vertical roof sides. Failed gutter sealer can allow water into the roof insulation.
A-Pillars and Windshield Frame
Check the upper windshield corners, A-pillars and metal beneath the windshield seal.
Rear-Most and Front Body Mount Areas
Inspect the metal surrounding body mounts, not just the rubber bushings.
Frame Condition
Look for deep scaling, cracks, bad plating, spring-hanger damage and previous repairs.
Undercoating
Old tar-based coatings can conceal corrosion. Fresh black undercoating deserves questions.
Weatherstripping and Trim
FJ55-specific door seals, tailgate rubber, interior trim, moldings and small hardware can be difficult or expensive to locate.
Seat Frames, Headliner and Dash Parts
Check seat mounting points, headliner condition and whether unique interior pieces are present.
Tailgate Glass Operation
Test the rear window from every available switch or key control. Inspect wiring, regulator condition and glass channels.
F and 2F Engine Condition
Cold-start the engine. Check smoke, oil pressure, cooling behavior, carburetor response, leaks and abnormal noise.
Transmission and Transfer Case
Verify every gear, reverse, high range and low range.
Brakes and Steering
Inspect brakes, hydraulics, hoses, steering play and any power-steering conversion.
An FJ55 Restoration Needs Evidence
Bare-Metal Photos
You want photos before paint showing the roof, rockers, floors, quarters, fenders and tailgate.
Steel Repairs
Ask whether rust was removed and replaced with welded steel or simply buried beneath filler.
Parts Documentation
Know which components are original, reproduction, fabricated or adapted from other Land Cruisers.
Drainage
A repaired roof or gutter needs the water-entry problem solved, not merely prettier metal.
VIN and Chassis Identity
Confirm the chassis number, title and vehicle history make sense together.
Consistency
Fresh paint plus rusty fasteners, old wiring, rotted seals and crusty inner panels is a story—not a restoration.
Walk Away—or Adjust the Price?
Strong Reasons to Walk Away
- Extensive roof and gutter corrosion.
- Rotten inner and outer rocker structures.
- Major rust around multiple body mounts.
- Structural frame corrosion.
- Large amounts of filler hiding rust.
- Major title, chassis or body-identity inconsistencies.
- Poorly executed engine or transmission swaps.
- Unsafe steering conversions.
- Burned or unfused wiring.
- Seller refuses inspection under mats or trim.
- Seller refuses a cold start or road test.
Usually Negotiation or Baseline Items
- Minor lower-fender rust with solid surrounding structure.
- Localized tailgate repair.
- Tired weatherstripping.
- Original torn seat upholstery.
- Diagnosed rear-window problem.
- Carburetor tuning.
- Normal axle and wheel-bearing service.
- Old tires.
- Minor engine seepage.
- Age-unknown fluids.
Inspect the Pig, Not the Patina
Check each item only after you actually verify it.
Baseline Before You Beautify It
Stop the Water
Gutters, windshield seals, door seals, tailgate seals and drainage come first.
Map the Rust
Document every corrosion area before starting cosmetic work.
Protect the Engine
Cooling system, fluids, ignition, fuel system and oil leaks.
Make It Stop and Steer
Brakes, wheel bearings, axles, steering linkage and suspension.
Fix the Rear Window
Because you are going to get tired of explaining why the tailgate will not open.
Then Restore or Modify It
Original restoration, period upgrades, power steering, disc brakes or LS swap—fine. Just start with a structurally healthy Pig.
What Are Iron Pigs Actually Selling For?
Updated September 1, 2026.
The FJ55 market is unusually difficult to reduce to one number because body condition and build style completely change the product.
| Status | Truck | Location / Venue | Price / Result | AGF Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Current | 1977 FJ55 Project | Edmonds, Washington · IH8MUD | $9,000 asking | Mixed-year project: 1973 body, 1977 titled frame, rebuilt transitional engine, OME suspension, front discs and a mountain of extra parts. |
| Reserve Not Met | 1978 FJ55 | Littleton, Colorado · BaT · August 2026 | $20,001 high bid | Replacement 2F, FJ60 power steering, front discs, OME lift and fiberglass front fenders. |
| Sold | 1980 FJ55 | Bring a Trailer · April 2026 | $19,000 | Imported, repainted, 2F/four-speed, front discs and approximately 60k miles shown. |
| Sold | LS3-Powered 1979 FJ55 | Klamath Falls, Oregon · BaT · June 2026 | $42,500 | 6.2-liter LS3, automatic, FJ60 transfer case, OME suspension, power steering and air conditioning. |
| High-End Build | LS3-Powered 1974 FJ55 | Idaho · BaT · April 2026 | $106,000 | Full custom build with LS3, 6L80 automatic, FJ60 rear axle, Dobinsons suspension, modern climate control and extensively redone interior. |
| Sold | Original-Owner 1978 FJ55 | Bring a Trailer · August 2024 | $29,500 | 62k miles, original-owner history and documented refurbishment. |
Listings change or disappear. A current asking price, a reserve-not-met bid and a completed sale are not interchangeable. Always open the original listing.
Best Current Project Reference
The $9,000 IH8MUD project illustrates how cheap an incomplete Pig can appear before fabrication and assembly costs arrive.
Best Regional Comp
The August Colorado FJ55 bid to $20,001 is a useful Mountain West comparison for a modified but imperfect driver.
Market Outlier
The $106,000 Idaho LS3 truck belongs in the custom-restomod category. Do not use it to price a rusty stock Pig.
FJ55 Buyer FAQs
Why is it called the Iron Pig?
The nickname became enthusiast shorthand for the FJ55’s unmistakable shape. Whether you see a charming classic wagon or a refrigerator designed by farm-equipment engineers, you will understand immediately.
What is the biggest FJ55 problem?
Rust. Specifically roof-channel, rocker, quarter-panel, floor and tailgate rust on a vehicle with much less reproduction-body support than an FJ40.
What is the worst place to find rust?
Roof and gutter corrosion is especially unpleasant because water can enter the roof structure and cause hidden corrosion from inside.
Should I avoid a 1974?
No. Just understand that 1974 is a transitional year. Identify the actual engine, transmission, transfer case, brakes and steering system.
Should I buy a V8-swapped Pig?
Maybe. A properly engineered LS or other conversion can make an FJ55 much easier to use. Inspect cooling, fuel system, wiring, mounts, driveline angles and serviceability.
Are FJ55 parts hard to find?
Mechanical parts shared with other Land Cruisers can be manageable. FJ55-specific panels, trim, weatherstripping and tailgate components can be much more difficult.
How much rust is too much?
If the roof, rockers, floors, quarters and body mounts are all rotten, buying a better body is usually cheaper than proving how determined you are.
Are later FJ55s better?
They can be easier to live with because of later brakes, engine and steering improvements. But a pristine early Pig is a better purchase than a rotten late Pig.
Can I daily-drive one?
Technically yes. Expect vintage steering, vintage brakes, wind noise, fuel consumption, slow acceleration and regular conversations with strangers.
Source Material
IH8MUD: FJ55 Buying Tips
Excellent owner discussion covering model-year differences, rust locations, interior issues, brakes, steering and hard-to-find trim.
Open Thread ↗IH8MUD: FJ55 Rust Spectrum
Useful discussion showing how quickly rocker, floor, fender and body-mount rust turns into a major restoration.
Open Thread ↗IH8MUD: What to Look For in a 55
Owner advice covering front fenders, rear reflectors, drip rails, weatherstripping and other Pig-specific inspection points.
Open Thread ↗IH8MUD FJ55 / FJ56 Forum
The long-running archive of FJ55 technical, restoration and vehicle-sale discussions.
Open FJ55 Forum ↗Aaron Goes Fast
The FJ55 joins the standardized AGF Buyer Guide family alongside the 40, 60, 80, 100 and 200 Series.
Aaron Goes Fast ↗Buy the Pig With the Best Metal—not the Best Paint.
A solid FJ55 is weird, beautiful, practical, mechanically understandable and nearly impossible to confuse with anything else ever built.
A rusty one can make an FJ40 restoration look like an afternoon craft project.
Rockers before paint.
Floors before upholstery.
Documentation before restoration claims.
Metal before mileage.
And if somebody says “just a little Pig rust,” bring a flashlight.
Educational buyer guide only. Not a substitute for a professional pre-purchase inspection, Toyota service information or a qualified body/restoration inspection. FJ55 production details can vary by year, market and prior modifications. Aaron Goes Fast is not affiliated with Toyota, IH8MUD, Wikimedia Commons or Bring a Trailer.