McKelvey Lake: The Hard Branch of North Meadow Creek

Montana • Tobacco Root Mountains • August 2019

McKelvey Lake:The Hard Branch

The other fork of North Meadow Creek: a rougher climb above 9,000 feet to McKelvey Lake, the cabin everyone calls the No Tell Motel, mountain goats and puppy Boone’s first big trip.

Johnny’s blue Land Cruiser 80 Series and a tan FJ Cruiser with lights on parked in the timber below a granite peak on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana

Gatekeeper — 9,000 Feet — Mine Lake — Cliff Lake — Puppy on Every Rock — Never Lift — Gatekeeper — 9,000 Feet — Mine Lake —

The Other Fork

A year after the North Meadow Creek run to Twin Lakes, we went back to the Tobacco Roots in August 2019 and took the other fork. This one climbs to McKelvey Lake, and it’s the harder of the two.

Johnny was on the spot with me in his 80 Series. It was also Boone’s first big trip. He was about five months old.

And I’m going to go ahead and claim it: as far as I know, my FJ was the first Go Fast Camper to make it to the top. If you’ve got proof otherwise, send it to me.

Tan FJ Cruiser with auxiliary lights crawling over a rock garden in the timber on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
In the rocks.
Front corner of a tan FJ Cruiser beside a hand-carved McKelvey Lake sign on a tree on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
You made it.

The Trail

onX lists the McKelvey branch at about 2.3 miles and rates it a 6, a step up from the Twin Lakes side. A boulder obstacle the reviewers call the Gatekeeper sits about 50 yards in, and it’s a fair preview of what’s ahead. The route follows North Meadow Creek for about two miles, then climbs past old mining cabin sites to above 9,000 feet, with McKelvey, Mine and Cliff Lakes up top. The final stretch to Cliff Lake is limited to vehicles 50 inches wide or less.

One onX reviewer puts it bluntly: armor and rock sliders are a must. The Montana 4x4 Association maintains the route with the Forest Service’s Madison Ranger District.

Land Cruiser with a spare tire on the back climbing a rocky trail through the forest on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
Following Johnny’s 80 up.
View over a hood of a Land Cruiser crawling a rocky ledge in the trees on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
From the driver’s seat.
Truck ahead on a shady dirt trail through tall pines, seen over a hood on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
Through the timber.
Tan FJ Cruiser with lights on parked below a granite peak in the pines on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
Almost there.

The No Tell Motel

McKelvey Lake sits in a bowl of granite and talus under a ridge that still had snow in August. Near camp is an old log cabin that everybody who goes up there knows as the No Tell Motel.

What happens at the No Tell Motel stays at the No Tell Motel. The only rule anybody posted is a hand-lettered notice inside laying down the first law of backcountry cabins: use wood, replace wood.

Granite peak and forest reflected in a still mountain lake on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
McKelvey Lake.
Talus slopes and forest reflected in a calm high lake on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
Talus and glass.
Weathered log cabin known as the No Tell Motel, with an open wooden door and a carved plaque above it on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
Check-in at the No Tell Motel.
Handwritten Law Number 1 sign reading Use Wood, Replace Wood inside the No Tell Motel cabin next to a fishing net on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
House rules.
Tan FJ Cruiser with a snorkel and Go Fast Camper rooftop tent parked in a forest camp on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
Camp.
Front of a tan FJ Cruiser with an open Go Fast Camper rooftop tent among dead and living pines on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
The first GFC at the top. Probably.
White mountain goats on a steep granite cliff above a lake on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
Neighbors. Look closely.
High lake below a rocky cirque with snow patches and pines on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
Snow in August.

Boone’s First Big Trip

Five months old and already convinced every rock in the Tobacco Roots needed to be stood on.

Wirehaired Pointing Griffon puppy sitting in a meadow of yellow and red wildflowers on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
Wildflower Boone.
Griffon puppy sitting on a muddy lakeshore below a talus slope and forest on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
Lakeshore Boone.
Griffon puppy sitting on a rock in front of a high lake and a rocky ridge with snow on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
Rock Boone.
Griffon puppy standing on rocks in a clear lake on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
Water Boone.
Griffon puppy standing on a lakeside boulder with a mountain and clouds behind on the North Meadow Creek trail to McKelvey Lake in the Tobacco Root Mountains, Montana
King of the lake.

Know Before You Go

Where. North Meadow Creek in the Tobacco Root Mountains near Pony. The trail forks partway up: Twin Lakes one way, McKelvey, Mine and Cliff Lakes the other.

When. onX says it’s generally passable just after the Fourth of July and closes to non-tracked vehicles on December 1.

Vehicle. High clearance, real tires, rock sliders and a spotter. Narrow rigs only for the last push to Cliff Lake.

The No Tell Motel. It’s not a reservation cabin. Use wood, replace wood, and leave it better than you found it.

More dog: meet Boone.

Use wood. Replace wood. Don’t tell.

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